
These terrier breeds were bred to have a harder or wiry outer coat
with a soft furry undercoat. The purpose of this coat was for hunting and
working. The harder outer coat is more water and dirt repellent and the soft
furry undercoat is to keep to keep them warm.
There are 2 ways to groom this type of terrier-one is to hand strip
the coat to maintain the natural characteristics of the coat. Removing the dead outer coat
will allow new growth to come in. This is a lengthy process and may be expensive to have a
groomer take care of. The other method is clipping with clippers. This will 'damage' the
hair structure and cause it to come in soft and not new growth, thus losing it's natural benefits of water and
dust repellent. These notes are for pet owners, not necessarily for the show
ring.
Stripping the Coat
- If you select this method of grooming, there are several ways. A few
of the tools that work for you include stripping knives, stripping stones, magnet
strippers, "Mars Coat King" or even your fingers. For those not concerned with showing, but
want to keep the coat the correct style and texture, I recommend the "Mars Coat King" as it
functions very similar to a brush with fast results. The only caution is that you don't
remove too much of the undercoat during the cool weather. You can use scissors along with any
of the methods above to tidy up any areas without damaging the structure of the
coat.
- Brush the coat against the grain, you will see hairs that stick up
out of the rest. Those are the dead growth that should be removed. *If using the Mars Coat King or
similar product, just comb it through.* Go ahead and pull wiith index finger and thumb or
finger against a stripping knife.
- There are many good books and breed books with details on shaping the
coat to the standard.
Pet Clipping
- This is the most popular method and the most economical. Many people
will take their terrier to the groomer every 4-6 weeks for a clip. Generally, we
recommend before 6 months of age, even though they may not have a fully grown coat, but
to establish good grooming relations.
- You are also encouraged to groom the puppy at home and handle the
ears, tail and paws with care so that they are more at ease when going to a groomer.
Encourage them to start standing still for grooming sessions at home and increase the length
of time each time you groom.
- You can also purchase clipper sets that come with various blades or
attachments to do-it-yourself. We can help you select the right blade or attachment that
you would need for the right areas.
The forgotten areas!
- Many times we forget those hard to reach places. First off, the
nails. Be sure to properly trim your dogs nails. We start handling their feet very early and
trimming their nails before they leave. Most of the nails are black, so you won't be able to see
the vein that runs through them. It is very important to understand where to cut the nail-just
right in front of the curve. When you go to the vet for your first check up, ask the vet to show you
where to trim. Trimming too short will cause your dog pain and make it hard to trim the
next time.
- The ears. There are wonderful products available for ear rinses. I
recommend a BiogroomProduct. You simply squeeze a small amount in, rub the ear gently,
and remove the excessproduct with a cotton ball. If there is any matter in the ear, gently
use a Q tip to remove.You many also need to pluck or remove hairs inside the ears to help
them properly air outand stay clean.
- Backside. Always be mindful, especially if your dog or puppy has been
ill, that they may not fully get their backside clean and it may cause a blockage if they
are not able to properly eliminate.
- Teeth. Most vets will do a yearly routine teeth cleaning. However,
they will have to eithergas or put the dog to sleep to do the proceedure. I recommend
brushing and/or a nylabone to help remove plaque. Hard dog foods also help
remove the tartar and plaque from teeth on a regular basis.
(c) 2009 Amy Lambrecht, "My Shadow" Terriers. All rights reserved.